Despúes de tanto buscarlo... finalmente lo encontré cuando menos los esperaba y con lujo de detalles...
Por cierto paraq quien así lo quiera hay más información en el site :
http://www.slavapub.net/content-23-655.htmlPD: ya sé que somos hispanohablantes... pero valía la pena compartir esta información. Al menos eso creo... tantas veces quise encontrar la explicación como para construirlo y sencillamente imitar el puntal de mi profesor...
Salutti.-
A Few Words About The Bent Endpin
by François Rabbath
The bent endpin was developed for me by the luthier Horst Grünert. Its purpose is to change the center of gravity of the double bass so that a standing player will feel less weight on the thumb supporting the neck.
In my approach to the instrument the left hand has access to both ends of the fingerboard and the bow arm can apply weight equally on the four strings without the necessity of turning the instrument. The bent endpin encourages an ?opening? of the face of the bass and obliges the player to stand erect. Since the bass is at a steeper angle to the player it is automatically natural to apply the weight of both arms, especially the bow arm, with relaxed weight rather than muscular pressure. Notice also that the sound of the instrument is projected more efficiently at this angle.
How To Make A Bent EndpinAny steel rod may be bent. Grünert used the Götz endpin assembly which has a sufficiently thick rod (10mm). If a thinner rod such as is found on cheaper endpin assemblies is bent it will tend to wobble. It is possible to bend hollow endpins such as the Ulsa aluminum model but the procedure is more complicated. The rod is bent at a 44° angle. For maximum effectiveness, establish the length of a straight endpin with the bass in playing position and bend the rod at the point where the rod leaves the socket.
The bass cannot be carried around with the non-retractable bent endpin sticking out, so a short rod with a rubber tip (or a wheel) is a necessary piece of equipment.
Material: Steel rod comes in 36? lengths which is enough to make three endpins for normal height people. If you have a 10mm endpin shaft (all the good endpins from Germany) the first thing you discover is that the hardware store down on the corner doesn?t sell metric rod. The closest thing they have is 3/8? which, unfortunately is a little too small. What you really want is 25/64? which isn?t 10mm either but is perfectly close enough. For that you have to drive to some industrial park at the edge of town to a place that sells to tradesmen.
While you?re out there stop in at a rubber place also to get a length of 1? O-ring cord for making the endpin tip. Ask for non-slip, non-marking rubber. They know what to give you. If you don?t feel compelled to patronize your local merchant, MSC in Jonestown, PA (800-645-7270) will send you 25/64 oil hard drill rod by UPS. Equipment: Mapp Gas torch. Propane will work but more slowly. Vise. Bucket of water. Grinding wheel or hand file. Drill and 25/64 drill bit. A smaller drill bit is useful for making a pilot hole.
How to do it:The endpin will be bent at the point where it leaves the socket when it has been adjusted for playing.
There?s no reason for the part that will be inside the socket to be longer than four inches. Clamp the rod vertically in the vise and heat the bending point to incandescence. Wearing a protective glove, pull the rod back to the desired angle, 44°. (I drew the angle on a piece of cardboard to serve as a template.) Remove the rod from the vise and plunge it into a bucket of water to temper the steel. Grind a flat spot on the pin just above the bend on the place where the screw will hit when it is installed. Without this flat spot the endpin will twist in the socket. Saw off a couple inches or less of the rubber, put it in the vise, and drill a hole most of the way into it to
make a tip.
